Project "Fiat V-Spec" (page 10)

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Engine pictures /  Design notes / Design notes 2

 

- - - 5/18/04 - - -

This might be the last update in some time. Why? Because visually this stage of the project is pretty much DONE! First the gratuitous engine bay shot:

Next up some exhaust pictures from Jeff @ teamthump.com's work:

 

 

 
3.5" pipe in muffler location Pretty tight tire clearance! OMIGOD! Rice boy muffler! Hey it's the only kind that's 3.5" inlet and outlet
 
Geez is it really Rice? I think so... Y-transition front looking back. Dual 2.5" into single 3.5" Same transition looking forward


 


(front bumper and airdam to follow soon)

So what do we have now? The exhaust is now dual 2.5" pipes merging into a single 3.5" pipe that passes through the crossmember (and it's a tight fit, folks!). I have a Magnaflow 14" long, 6" diameter muffler that's straight-through 3.5" inside. The sound isn't great but that's really not the point here...

Jeff did a ton of work: Front discs went from solid 10.5" rotors and 2 -piston calipers (stock 240Z) to 10.8" vented rotors and 4-piston aluminum calipers ('90+ 300ZX). Rear brakes went from drums (510) to 11" vented rear discs with aluminum 2-piston calipers (again '90+ 300ZX), and the brake master cylinder went from 7/8" (510) to 15/16" (280ZX). The stock 510 tank was replaced with a larger capacity 610 fuel tank with a 300ZXTT internal fuel pump. Lower control arms are now adjustable, and as mentioned before he ran 2.5" exhaust from each side into a single 3.5" the rest of the way back. Take a look at the "3.5" pipe in muffler location" picture and look how well he tucked the huge 3.5" pipe under the half shafts - the "OMIGOD pictures shows it as well. Incredible work Jeff!

Now would be a good time to note a bit of learning on my part It turns out the previous exhaust was not completely to blame for only getting 8-9psi of boost. When we installed the Bosch blow-off valves notice it was only 3 days after the exhaust system. It turns out that these BOV's have vacuum nipples on them and they need to be plumbed to the intake plenum or else they don't hold the boost pressure. So I plumbed them up a couple of days ago and went around the block. Man, is the idle quality crap! It won't idle, but I DO have 17psi of boost. Hmm. A little Internet research finds that at idle and low throttle cruise these BOV's will DRAW air in! Today I tried a little experiment by taping the outlet of the BOV's closed (effectively eliminating the BOV's) and lo and behold, I can actually drive the car again! I imagine if I were to run up the boost and then shift the tape would blow off and the idle would go to crap again.

Since these BOV's draw air in, this air is unmetered, so the ECU doesn't know about it but when the O2 sensors send their input to the ECU it tries to correct it. What needs to be done is these BOV's need to be plumbed as recirc valves - instead of venting to atmosphere they need to vent somewhere after the MAF - this way when they are drawing air it is air the MAF has already measured.

In any case the car is 90% to being a nice driver from an engine standpoint. I currently have about 10psi too much fuel pressure and will be hunting down that problem, but currently I can hop in the car, fire it up and drive around with no major issues. If I feel like 15+ PSI I could turn on the boost controller and blow off the tape on the BOV's and suffer with poor idle. We're REALLY close and I suspect in a couple weeks I'll be looking for a dyno day!

- - - 5/20/04 - - -

I finally drove it to work today and it did great! Today I was actually able to pay attention to the steering and other non-engine stuff, and it's better than it has ever been in some regards and I forgot how nice the car really rides, I think the spring rates are about perfect for the street. The diff/u-joints make noise on some low-speed turns since the diff is so tight (and two u-joints are marginal for TT power), but the steering seems a lot lighter than it had been, maybe the caster changed.

I also had time to set the boost controller. I used to have the HIGH setting dialed to the maximum, now I have it so I get 15psi as planned all along. I need to plumb the recirc valves and find out why fuel pressure is 10psi too high, but that's pretty much it from a functional standpoint! Then it's minor stiff like alignment, tach, speedo, etc. I'd say it's dyno-day ready now, and after alignment/recircs/tach it's competition ready. I have no tach but I'd bet I have boost before 2000rpm, yet traction isn't the issue I thought it'd be so I'm guessing the 3.36's are really helping in that regard.

It does have one weird symptom, it seems to come on boost when it shouldn't be : light throttle, lower RPM's - at last in some cases the vacuum goes to zero and I hear some turbo "whoosh". I have to push in the clutch and let it get back to idle

 

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